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As Gstaad, the upscale resort town in the Bernese Oberland region of the Swiss Alps, becomes increasingly dominated by designer boutiques, palatial luxury stays, and high-end restaurants, critics contend that its elemental spirit has been buried beneath the alchemy of modern development over the years. Travelers seeking a more down-to-earth experience—that still captures the sensibility of this singular region in the Alps—will find the nearby village of Saanen a delightful alternative.
Just a five-minute drive from its glitzy neighbor, this historic chalet village offers a more intimate refuge, allowing visitors to savor the region’s timeless charms without any pretentious frills. At first glance, the fairytale village of Saanen appears frozen in time, yet its dynamic appeal lies in its subtlety. Beneath Saanen’s old-fashioned exterior lies a crop of memorable meals, upscale wine shops, and art galleries, as well as direct access to the slopes—all centered around the protected heritage site of its historic cobblestone village, making it exactly the kind of place locals like to keep to themselves.
Such promise is precisely what inspired Sebastian Schoellgen, author of The Alps and travel club 84 Rooms, to begin planting roots in the area. “My dad first took me to Saanen when I was a child. We never stayed in Gstaad, which feels more like Fifth Avenue these days—only in the surrounding villages like Saanen, Rougemont, Schönried, Saanenmöser, and Lauenen.” Schoellgen opened his first property, Le Lion Rouge, in June 2023 in the nearby town of Rougemont as a gateway for travelers to discover the magic of these lesser-known villages in the Gstaad valley—each located a short drive from each other and connected via the scenic golden pass train (the lucky ones can even book the vintage Belle Epoque train for enhanced cinematic effect).
“What makes these villages so unique is their authentic chalet architecture, which you can only find here,” Schoellgen says of the traditional wood houses with gable roofs, a hallmark of the region which is considered the most genuinely rural and arguably the most beautiful in all of Switzerland. While Rougemont is the only officially French-speaking village (the others are German-speaking), both languages are spoken here, giving the region international appeal that has long drawn discerning visitors from around the world.
In the spring of 2024, Schoellgen purchased the historic Chalet Saanen. “Saanen is the heart of it all,” he explains. “Not only geographically, but also because you will find everything you need here. Great bakeries, wine bars, cheese shops, grocers, art galleries, local artisans, markets, and fantastic restaurants.” The 250-year-old chalet, once home to the renowned British-American violinist Yehudi Menuhin, is a place with deep ties to the region’s history. Menuhin, whose influence on the area is lasting, inspired the creation of the celebrated Gstaad Menuhin Festival, named in his honor.
After a nine-month renovation, Schoellgen opened Chalet Saanen for both short and long-term stays in December 2024. While both of his properties are inspired by local mountain architecture and the Alpine culture of the 1960s and 1970s—and are decorated with a collection of Swiss, Austrian, and French antique finds from his personal collection—they’re also intended to be reflective of their specific location. Unlike its sister property Le Lion Rouge, which is a larger mountain lodge located on a big secluded piece of land, Chalet Saanen is more aligned with the authentic and traditional “Saanenland” chalet style with the typical low ceilings and old wood. “What I loved during my first visit were the many original features such as the original hand-painted doors and wardrobes, which we preserved during renovations,” he notes.
Following the success of Le Lion Rouge, which has already become a landmark stay in Rougemont since its opening last spring, Chalet Saanen has similarly begun attracting a new wave of design enthusiasts to Saanan. Perched atop a hill with views overlooking the iconic St. Mauritius Church, which anchors the village of Saanen, the location offers an idyllic setting where guests are just a five-minute stroll down a scenic path to the vibrant village, buzzing with food, wine, and culture.
While the most popular accommodations in Saanen are private chalets, Saanen’s village does, in fact, have a handful of low-key but reliable options for travelers who prefer to stay at a hotel. (For a dose of luxury, travelers should look to Gstaad for its iconic stays like Gstaad Palace, The Alpina Gstaad, and Le Grand Bellevue.) Perched above the village of Saanen, the four-star HUUS Gstaad Hotel’s living room-style lobby and cozy chalet-style rooms and suites maintain a relaxed ambiance, though the hotel itself is the most resort-like in town with first-rate hospitality, various restaurants on property, a spa and a ski and bike shop.
Down in the village, the abundant charms and warm staff at Hotel Spitzhorn surely surpass its three-star rating. Rooms combine rustic charms with modern comforts in a way that elevates the guest experience—a seamless integration that’s carried through to its small spa and restaurant. Although there are currently no five-star hotels in the village of Saanen, the five-star Alpina Gstaad has confirmed that its second location is slated to open in Saanen—a move likely to inspire further hospitality development in the area.
Yet the current absence of five-star hotels doesn’t accurately reflect the upmarket sensibility across Saanen’s food and art offerings. Saanen’s food scene is characterized by high-quality ingredients served in casual settings. Even Saanen’s most renowned, high-end establishments remain low-key and devoid of pretension, like 16 ART-BAR-RESTAURANT, credited by Michelin as Bib Gourmand for an experience and culinary offering that is both high quality and good value. Located right in the center of town, guests can enjoy its barbeque specialities in a casual, rustic room wian th artful sensibility as contemporary works by Hebert Buchs hang on the walls.
Sonnenhof has become another destination for high-end dining in Saanen, located off the main road between Saanen and Schönried, with a French and Italian menu that can be enjoyed from the sunny terrace overlooking the mountains. For something more casual, but no less delicious back in Saanen village, Cherry’s Bistro might have you questioning whether you’ve been transported to the Italian side of the Alps with salads and pizzas that feel as gourmet as anything you can find in the Dolomites. At both Early Beck locations in the village, diners can choose from a fresh selection of baked goods, pastries (don’t sleep on the Linzer tart), sandwiches, and homemade vegetable soups.
Saanen village has also seen an uptick in home decor shops, with popular local businesses like the La Verand'Anne and Rougemont Interiors relocating from Gstaad to Saanen—a trend that will likely continue as rent and real estate prices continue to rise in the neighboring town. Saanen’s deluge of culture is further highlighted by its growing art scene, with high-end galleries like Urs Von Unger taking center stage. Across two floors, the gallery showcases contemporary works, including glass pieces by Philipp Weber, alongside its unique collection of antique art, furniture, decor, and photography, attracting discerning art collectors and curators from across the globe. Another testament to Saanen’s growing presence in the art world is Tarmak22, an impressive exhibition space founded in 2019 by Tatiana de Pahlen and Antonia Crespí, located at Gstaad-Saanen Airport. In the winter months, Tarmak22 hosts exhibitions in partnership with international galleries, while curating its own shows in the summer.
Saanen is optimally located at the center of the Gstaad/Saanen/Rougemont ski resort, which connects various mountains in the area from its own at Eggli/La Videmanette, and has thus made winter sports the area’s top attraction—from downhill skiing, to cross country, to snowshoeing, as well as snow-covered hikes. The neighboring village of Château-d’Œx has also become famous for its Festival International de Ballons, an event that has taken place at the end of January for the past 40 years. The vibrant festival occurs over the span of nine days, featuring night shows, balloon fights, and sporting competitions.
While Glacier 3000 located 20 minutes from Saanen offers spring skiing until May, the village of Saanen stays open year-round and has become an especially buzzy summer destination—which is especially apropos as the rising temps of climate change are pushing travelers towards cooler summer destinations. “Most people consider this region only in winter, but it has far more to offer during the summer and the fall,” explains Schoellgen. “From annual events such as music festivals and world-class tennis tournaments and outdoor activities like hiking, biking, and swimming in the turquoise lakes [like the famous Arnensee Lake], the region’s hotels and restaurants have been extending their season to almost year-round.” What are you waiting for?
